Yesterday was... how to describe it?
Coming to New York, I was going to be a tourist. There's no going around it. I'm an outsider who's come to see what it's like being in the big city. But I didn't want to be a typical tourist. I wanted to see things differently, go at it from a different angle. And yesterday was about as untypical a day as I could have had, I think.
It started off normally enough. I did some more of my walking tours, checking out SoHo. I didn't realize what an impact Jane Jacobs had had on downtown Manhattan. Go local team! But it also made me sad. So much of what I was reading in the guidebook was 'This awesome place used to be here, and that awesome place used to be there, until tourists brought in boutique shops and high rents pushed all the cool people away.' SoHo had awesome architecture. More Cast Iron buildings still standing there than anywhere else in the world. But where it was once a neighbourhood for starving artists, it - like pretty much all of Manhattan - is now a playground for the super rich.
After, I did another self guided tour of Greenwich Village. A lot of the names of writers I wasn't familiar with, but one of the items on the tour was the house that Edgar Allen Poe lived in. I was quite to excited to see it, but when I got there, there was a giant boring looking building - an extension of NYU's law school. A reconstructed facade of 'The Poe House was a part of the structure... but inside was just a non-descript white room with some glass cases filled with memorabilia. I was quite upset, and wasn't sure I wanted to do the rest of the tour, if all I was going to see was reconstructions and sites where the actual building had been torn down. The next stop on the tour was 'The Provincetown Playhouse', where the playwright Eugene O'Neill got his start, among many, many others. This place was still up, but with demolition orders on it, and scaffolding surrounding it. On the other side of the street was a group of people protesting the demolition. They handed me a sign, and I joined in, spending the morning chanting chants and hearing speeches about the culture of the city. It was incredible. I think I was the only non-local of the bunch. Reverend Billy, of the Church of No Shopping was there, as well as a bunch of people struggling against the gentrificationi and Disneyfication of the city.
After the protest, I had lunch with Reverend Billy. He's an actor who uses the role of bombastic pentecostal preacher to preach against consumerism. It's something to watch... I haven't seen it myself, but there's a documentary that follows him and his 'choir'. It's called 'What Would Jesus Buy', produced by Morgan Spurlock, of 'Super Size Me'. I told him about Leslieville's fight against Big Box stores, and he wants to come down and help out if there's still a chance of stopping it.
During the evening, I went to an Irish pub that only serves Guinness on draught, nothing else. They have the old 'Guinness is good for you' posters slapped all over the place. A Bluegrass band was jamming together - absolutely fantastic, but no one else was there other than me and the jammers. It was incredible to watch and listen to them teaching and encouraging each other, figuring out how to do new things together. They recommended a bunch of places for me to go to, so all my evenings have now been spoken for till I leave. I'll be going to the Rockwood tonight, the Rodeo on Wednesday, and back to the Irish place on thursday to hear some traditional Irish folk music, with someone who's apparently the best Irish fiddler in the city playing.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Sunday, October 19, 2008
NYC - Day Three
Last night - Wow. Wow. Wow.
Before watching a show, Times Square is disgusting. I hate it. I hate the huge stores, the giant advertisements, the absolute crush of tourists. M & M World is the nadir of New York. At least I hope it is. It's just constant sensory bombardment with no let up.
Thankfully, I made it to my theatre, which ended up being an absolutely tiny little thing on the second floor of a building very close to Times Square. The 'Snapple Theatre'.
I was surprised when I walked in... I had no idea anything in New York, especially anything related to Broadway (even if it's technically off-broadway) could be so... small... The space is smaller then Buddies, smaller even then YPT's studio. There weren't more then 7 rows, and I was in the second row.
One of the big reasons I wanted to see the Fantasticks, is that this musical is pretty much the reason I have the best friend that I do. Ms Flood paired us together to sing a number from it, and our friendship just exploded as a result of our rehearsing together constantly. So I was very eager to find out who was playing the roles me and Finbar filled.
It's not so cut and paste an answer, because the lyrics were divied up differently from how me and Finny sang it. We're sort of an amalgam of both of the roles. But both actors were absolutely terrific. And one of them was Leo Burmester! The old gas station proprietor from "No Country for Old Men". That scene has always been my favourite from the movie, so getting to see the actor livem (and then being able to chat with him in the elevator leaving the theatre) was pretty frikkin sweet.
Add surprise onto surprise, the role of 'The Boy' was played by one of the racers on the current season of 'The Amazing Race'.
Even given the pleasant surprises in familiar faces in the cast, the performance itself was absolutely superb. I've never left a theatre on such a high before. And Times Square transformed. Walking through the Square after a show is completely different for me than before. The air became electric. Everyone was buzzing from the shows they had just seen. It was really something else. Everyone went from being obstacles in everyone elses way to being co-celebrants in something very special.
Today - I did a tour of Harlem... My first and only time that I'll be going with a group. I learned lots of fascinating things... but I hated being in a huge group. The tour culminated in a gospel service at a Harlem church. When I read that in the tour, I stopped thinking properly. I thought I was going to have the chance to worship WITH a church in Harlem. We were shepherded into the church. There was about 10 times more tourists than there were congregants, and we were all guided to sit in the back section of the church. All the tourists had cameras out and were taking pictures of the attraction. I hated it and left as soon as I could. On hindsight, I should have realized that that's what it would have been... but... well, that's why hindsight is hindsight.
I made my way down to the lower East side, and did a self-guided walking tour, focusing on the Jewish history of the place, visiting synagogues and such. I had another fantastic surprise, stumbling onto some sort of major street festival. It was very much a local thing rather than a tourist thing. I was asked to sign a number of municipal petitions that I wasn't eligible to sign. And I ate chocolate covered bacon.
That's right. Chocolate covered Bacon. It tasted... weird. I think it's something more for chocolate or dessert connoisseurs. The flavor combination was a bit too complex for me. I think I like my sweets fairly simple. But I sampled some of the womans other wares, and they were amazing. I think it was my first time tasting chocolate that can be legitimately described as 'luxury'. I also had the best doughnuts of my life.
Later in the day, I went to the Manhattan Mennonite Fellowship. I felt very comfortable there. I really liked it, and met some people that I hope will become friends.
I've also finally started to connect with some of my fellow travellers. I discovered the dining room/kitchen area in the hostel where I can make food, or bring it from the neighbourhood, and eat it in a communal environment. Much better than sitting in a restaurant by myself, or walking down the street with a hot dog or Shish kabob. (which is awesome occaisonally, but not as a staple.)
Tomorrow - no plans as of yet. I might just wake up and start wandering randomly and see where it takes me. I want to get to the boroughs at some point soon...
Before watching a show, Times Square is disgusting. I hate it. I hate the huge stores, the giant advertisements, the absolute crush of tourists. M & M World is the nadir of New York. At least I hope it is. It's just constant sensory bombardment with no let up.
Thankfully, I made it to my theatre, which ended up being an absolutely tiny little thing on the second floor of a building very close to Times Square. The 'Snapple Theatre'.
I was surprised when I walked in... I had no idea anything in New York, especially anything related to Broadway (even if it's technically off-broadway) could be so... small... The space is smaller then Buddies, smaller even then YPT's studio. There weren't more then 7 rows, and I was in the second row.
One of the big reasons I wanted to see the Fantasticks, is that this musical is pretty much the reason I have the best friend that I do. Ms Flood paired us together to sing a number from it, and our friendship just exploded as a result of our rehearsing together constantly. So I was very eager to find out who was playing the roles me and Finbar filled.
It's not so cut and paste an answer, because the lyrics were divied up differently from how me and Finny sang it. We're sort of an amalgam of both of the roles. But both actors were absolutely terrific. And one of them was Leo Burmester! The old gas station proprietor from "No Country for Old Men". That scene has always been my favourite from the movie, so getting to see the actor livem (and then being able to chat with him in the elevator leaving the theatre) was pretty frikkin sweet.
Add surprise onto surprise, the role of 'The Boy' was played by one of the racers on the current season of 'The Amazing Race'.
Even given the pleasant surprises in familiar faces in the cast, the performance itself was absolutely superb. I've never left a theatre on such a high before. And Times Square transformed. Walking through the Square after a show is completely different for me than before. The air became electric. Everyone was buzzing from the shows they had just seen. It was really something else. Everyone went from being obstacles in everyone elses way to being co-celebrants in something very special.
Today - I did a tour of Harlem... My first and only time that I'll be going with a group. I learned lots of fascinating things... but I hated being in a huge group. The tour culminated in a gospel service at a Harlem church. When I read that in the tour, I stopped thinking properly. I thought I was going to have the chance to worship WITH a church in Harlem. We were shepherded into the church. There was about 10 times more tourists than there were congregants, and we were all guided to sit in the back section of the church. All the tourists had cameras out and were taking pictures of the attraction. I hated it and left as soon as I could. On hindsight, I should have realized that that's what it would have been... but... well, that's why hindsight is hindsight.
I made my way down to the lower East side, and did a self-guided walking tour, focusing on the Jewish history of the place, visiting synagogues and such. I had another fantastic surprise, stumbling onto some sort of major street festival. It was very much a local thing rather than a tourist thing. I was asked to sign a number of municipal petitions that I wasn't eligible to sign. And I ate chocolate covered bacon.
That's right. Chocolate covered Bacon. It tasted... weird. I think it's something more for chocolate or dessert connoisseurs. The flavor combination was a bit too complex for me. I think I like my sweets fairly simple. But I sampled some of the womans other wares, and they were amazing. I think it was my first time tasting chocolate that can be legitimately described as 'luxury'. I also had the best doughnuts of my life.
Later in the day, I went to the Manhattan Mennonite Fellowship. I felt very comfortable there. I really liked it, and met some people that I hope will become friends.
I've also finally started to connect with some of my fellow travellers. I discovered the dining room/kitchen area in the hostel where I can make food, or bring it from the neighbourhood, and eat it in a communal environment. Much better than sitting in a restaurant by myself, or walking down the street with a hot dog or Shish kabob. (which is awesome occaisonally, but not as a staple.)
Tomorrow - no plans as of yet. I might just wake up and start wandering randomly and see where it takes me. I want to get to the boroughs at some point soon...
Saturday, October 18, 2008
NYC - Day two.
Last night: New Yorkers do NOT live up to their cranky reputation. Had a lovely conversation with a pretty girl who saw my guidebook and asked where I was from.
This was on my way to a bar in the lower east side that apparently plays good local Rock shows. I saw three bands, one not too memorable, one memorably bad, (I was the only guy that wasn't a family member or significant other of the band) and one that was absolutely AMAZING. They were called Endway, and I bought their CD. Awesome band.
Walked around the city in the wee hours of the night, and saw an incredible pots and pans drummer at Times Square station, and ate non-hot dog street meat. They sell everything from street stands here.
Today: Explored Central Park, wandered around a bit more downtown, saw the Naked Cowboy and bought tickets to see the Fantasticks tonight from the half-off stand. The guy behind me in line was a local named Tony who sees a half-off show about once a week. I had a blast talking to him. Another super friendly new yorker. He told me that New York's rep came pre-9-11, and that since the towers fell, everyone's become much, much nicer. With my experience so far, New Yorkers are the friendliest city dwellers I've ever met.
In Central Park:
-A family of 6 busking by singing amazing doo-wop harmonies. I wonder what the family dynamic was like... the kids were very young and looked like they did NOT want to be there.
-Many, many, many runners. Central Park is a joggers paradise.
-And many, many playgrounds with very interesting layouts. Grounders would be incredible here.
-Public art coming out the wazoo.
Tonight, the Fantasticks, and depending on how I feel when it's over, maybe to a pub that features Celtic music.
Tomorrow, the plan is to explore Harlem and check out a church there, then in the evening go to the Manhattan Mennonite Fellowship.
This was on my way to a bar in the lower east side that apparently plays good local Rock shows. I saw three bands, one not too memorable, one memorably bad, (I was the only guy that wasn't a family member or significant other of the band) and one that was absolutely AMAZING. They were called Endway, and I bought their CD. Awesome band.
Walked around the city in the wee hours of the night, and saw an incredible pots and pans drummer at Times Square station, and ate non-hot dog street meat. They sell everything from street stands here.
Today: Explored Central Park, wandered around a bit more downtown, saw the Naked Cowboy and bought tickets to see the Fantasticks tonight from the half-off stand. The guy behind me in line was a local named Tony who sees a half-off show about once a week. I had a blast talking to him. Another super friendly new yorker. He told me that New York's rep came pre-9-11, and that since the towers fell, everyone's become much, much nicer. With my experience so far, New Yorkers are the friendliest city dwellers I've ever met.
In Central Park:
-A family of 6 busking by singing amazing doo-wop harmonies. I wonder what the family dynamic was like... the kids were very young and looked like they did NOT want to be there.
-Many, many, many runners. Central Park is a joggers paradise.
-And many, many playgrounds with very interesting layouts. Grounders would be incredible here.
-Public art coming out the wazoo.
Tonight, the Fantasticks, and depending on how I feel when it's over, maybe to a pub that features Celtic music.
Tomorrow, the plan is to explore Harlem and check out a church there, then in the evening go to the Manhattan Mennonite Fellowship.
Friday, October 17, 2008
NYC - day one
I can't upload pics yet, but hopefully they'll be coming soon.
Memories : Passing Scranton Pennsylvania - it's definitely the real Scranton that's used in the Office theme song.
Watching the Greyhound driver scream and swear at traffic trying to get into the Lincoln tunnel from the turnpike.
Experiencing New Yorkers that are TOO nice, and as a result discovering why it takes so long for the subway to leave the station in New York.
Experiencing the New York subway! What an incredible system! The TTC is childsplay compared to this labyrinth. And the buskers! So bizarre!
Wandering by chance into the Jewish Heritage Museum and being moved to tears.
Wandering Chinatown, with an amazing guidebook that took me off the beaten tourist path. I learned a lot of history, and saw a lot of great little things.
Being mistaken for a local by both tourists and their guides.
Walking all the way from my hostel (at 103rd) to Battery Park. Which is over two thirds of Manhattan from tip to tip.
Day one was mainly the walk from the hostel, wandering around Lower Manhattan (the financial district) - including stumbling onto Wall Street completely by accident. Checking out the Jewish Heritage museum, and wandering around Chinatown. I don't know what I'll be doing tonight. I'll figure something out. Friday night in New York!
Memories : Passing Scranton Pennsylvania - it's definitely the real Scranton that's used in the Office theme song.
Watching the Greyhound driver scream and swear at traffic trying to get into the Lincoln tunnel from the turnpike.
Experiencing New Yorkers that are TOO nice, and as a result discovering why it takes so long for the subway to leave the station in New York.
Experiencing the New York subway! What an incredible system! The TTC is childsplay compared to this labyrinth. And the buskers! So bizarre!
Wandering by chance into the Jewish Heritage Museum and being moved to tears.
Wandering Chinatown, with an amazing guidebook that took me off the beaten tourist path. I learned a lot of history, and saw a lot of great little things.
Being mistaken for a local by both tourists and their guides.
Walking all the way from my hostel (at 103rd) to Battery Park. Which is over two thirds of Manhattan from tip to tip.
Day one was mainly the walk from the hostel, wandering around Lower Manhattan (the financial district) - including stumbling onto Wall Street completely by accident. Checking out the Jewish Heritage museum, and wandering around Chinatown. I don't know what I'll be doing tonight. I'll figure something out. Friday night in New York!
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
On the road again.
Today I can stop feeling like a shiftless bum lazing about at home, and start feeling like a shiftless bum getting some mileage.
These past couple weeks have been weird. A capstone to a weird summer that has left me feeling... I don't know... not myself. So here I am. About to be off on a new voyage.
Part tourist, part prodigal nephew, part soul-searching pilgrim in a familiar foreign land.
At 6:30 I'll be hopping on a Greyhound bus to New York City, arriving at approximately 6 PM. I'll be staying in Manhattan for a bit over a week, at the HI Hostel in the Upper West End. Then I'll be bussing to Pennsylvania, to the heart of Mennonite land, seeing aunts and uncles (and a cousin) I haven't seen in years and years, where I'll be stopping for a bit less than a week.
Then it's off to Washington D.C and the HI Hostel there for about a week, (including American election day!!!) then off to Indiana for more family.
I've done very little planning for what I'll do in the major cities. I've got some highlights in both that I want to hit, but for the most part, I'm looking forward to spontaneous exploration, and leaving as much open as possible for... whatever might happen.
For once, I've got a camera with me, so I'll be taking lots of pictures, and updating this as often as I can.
I'll be seeing you in a month.
Ben
These past couple weeks have been weird. A capstone to a weird summer that has left me feeling... I don't know... not myself. So here I am. About to be off on a new voyage.
Part tourist, part prodigal nephew, part soul-searching pilgrim in a familiar foreign land.
At 6:30 I'll be hopping on a Greyhound bus to New York City, arriving at approximately 6 PM. I'll be staying in Manhattan for a bit over a week, at the HI Hostel in the Upper West End. Then I'll be bussing to Pennsylvania, to the heart of Mennonite land, seeing aunts and uncles (and a cousin) I haven't seen in years and years, where I'll be stopping for a bit less than a week.
Then it's off to Washington D.C and the HI Hostel there for about a week, (including American election day!!!) then off to Indiana for more family.
I've done very little planning for what I'll do in the major cities. I've got some highlights in both that I want to hit, but for the most part, I'm looking forward to spontaneous exploration, and leaving as much open as possible for... whatever might happen.
For once, I've got a camera with me, so I'll be taking lots of pictures, and updating this as often as I can.
I'll be seeing you in a month.
Ben
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